Venice.

From Piazza San Marco, walk through the arch beneath the Clock Tower into the Mercerie and look back up. The dial on this side is quite different from the astronomical clock facing the square.

The outer marble ring carries the hours. Inside it, stars cover the mosaic background. The sun-shaped hand indicates the time; the winged lion at the centre covers the end of the axle that drives it. A handsome facade turns out to be a machine you can begin to read.

On the square-facing side, the display is more elaborate, with the zodiac and the phases of the Moon. Looking at both faces explains more than photographing either one in isolation.

Where to stand. On the Mercerie side of the tower, just beyond the arch. Step out of the flow of pedestrians before looking up.

The museum explains both clock faces →

For the three central routes, the stops are close enough to connect on foot. The Lido needs a boat journey first. A vaporetto is a public waterbus; check the line, direction and boarding point before joining the queue.

Arriving by train

Venezia Santa Lucia is the station in historic Venice. Venezia Mestre is on the mainland. If your destination is the old city, check which station is on your ticket before getting off.

Arriving by road or air

Road arrivals reach the edge of the historic city around Piazzale Roma or Tronchetto. Airport services have their own fares: check whether your transfer uses ACTV, another bus operator or Alilaguna.

Venetian cooking draws on the lagoon and on trading connections that reached much farther away. Knowing a handful of names is more useful than arriving with a list of dishes that might not be in season.

Cicchetti

Small bites served in wine bars known as bacari. Look at the counter, choose what appeals and ask about the ingredients. The word describes a way of eating, not one fixed recipe.

Sarde in saor

Sardines with onions and vinegar, often raisins and pine nuts. The sweet-and-sour dressing gives this Venetian preparation its character.

Baccalà mantecato

Dried cod worked into a creamy mixture. Venice’s use of northern European stockfish is a reminder of how trade shaped the local kitchen.

Risi e bisi

Rice and peas, with a consistency between risotto and a thick soup. Traditionally associated with St Mark’s feast on 25 April, it makes particular sense as a spring dish.

Food background: Venezia Unica’s guide to Venetian cooking